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Step1 – Rough Opening Preparation:
- Determine prior to installation what the actual finish floor height will be and adjust the rough opening (Existing wall opening at the Field) if needed.
- Ideal Rough Opening should be 1 inch wider than the actual Unit Size (Net Outside Frame Size) and 1/2 inch taller.
- For typical wood frame construction, it is also essential that the wall sheathing be a solid surface to ensure that the unit can be secured firmly to the wall.
- Rough opening should be square within a tolerance of ¼”.
- The floor must be level with a tolerance of 1/8”.
- The header must be supported by trimmer studs.
- Minimum double studs should be used at all wood frame rough opening. A king and trimmer stud should be surrounding the door on both sides.
- The exterior face of the rough opening must be in a single plane with less than 1/8” twist from corner to corner (a True opening).
- The rough opening sill must not be crowned or sagged.
- Check the bottom surface of the opening to ensure it is flat, level, and free from debris. Proper operation of the door requires a sill that is flat and level.
Important: If these conditions are not met, the installer must take corrective actions to alter the opening(s) before proceeding.
Step 2- Installing Door Frame with Sidelights and Slab
- Door with sidelights units is shipped with slabs loose.
- It is recommended to always dry fit the frame into the opening before applying any sealants.
- Apply a generous amount of Exterior Grade Silicone on the subfloor where threshold will sit. This prevents drafts and moisture from penetrating through the bottom. Apply sealant liberally.
- Position the frame inside the rough opening.
- Start by shimming and aligning the bottom part of the jamb.
- Ensure correct daylight that will allow doors to close.
- Shim and install through the jamb finish trim head screws 8 x 3-1/8” on each side on the bottom, on both the hinge and strike side, to hold the frame in place. Position screws approximately 2 – 3 inches above the threshold.
- We always recommend predrilling the jamb, to avoid splitting the material.
- Align, plumb and shim the hinge side of the frame and install the 3rd screw approximately 6 inches from the top, leaving top strike side of the frame unfastened, for regulation. Remember to predrill the frame.
- With the frame in place, fastened to the studs, on both sides on the bottom and on the hinge side on the top, prepare to install the slab(s).
- Close the slab(s) and align the frame. Shim and fasten it to the stud, on top strike side of the frame.
- Inspect for:
- Gaps around the door between slab(s) and frame
- If the door is in plumb and aligned with the wall
- If the door is not in plumb or lock side of the door does not align with the mull post, push the top corner in or out, until the desired result is achieved. Fasten it again.
- If the door is not square release fastener on one side and tighten it on the other side. Add shims if needed.
- Install 2 additional shims and fasteners, spaced evenly on each side of the frame.
- Install screw through the frame header.
Step 3- Post-Installation
- Adjust the threshold with a Phillips screwdriver. Use the screws to lift or lower the wooden raiser until there is even clearance on the bottom of the door. (this step does not apply for flat ADA thresholds, or any non-adjustable thresholds)
- Insulate the space around the door by applying High-Grade Water-Resistant Insulation Foam (minimally expansive foam) between frame and rough opening.
- Finish installation by applying brickmould to the exterior side of the door with finishing nails.
- Minimize the appearance of finishing nails with a touch-up kit.
- Caulk around the doorway including the front sill edge and along the exterior where it meets the brick or siding.